Urea in cosmetics

Urea is one of the most studied and versatile ingredients in foot care, combining powerful moisturizing and gentle keratolytic action. It's important to understand how concentration and formulation influence the effect so that the cream doesn't just "soften" but actually addresses the problem of dryness, calluses, and cracks.

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Why does a dermatologist talk about urea?

Heard the word "urea" during a consultation, patients often feel confused. Meanwhile, urea (urea, carbamide) is one of the most researched and sought-after components in dermatocosmetics and podiatry. The name refers to the history of its discovery: in 1773, French chemist Hilaire Marin Ruel first isolated this compound from human urine by evaporation. Today, urea is synthesized from ammonia and carbon dioxide, and in cosmetics, it is designated as Urea or Hydroxyethyl Urea.

From a skin biochemistry perspective, urea is part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), responsible for maintaining hydration and the barrier function of the epidermis. It is not a foreign element, but a physiological component that the skin accepts as naturally as possible.

Why does a dermatologist talk about urea?

How urea affects the skin

The main value of urea is its unique combination of moisturizing and keratolytic properties. Depending on the concentration, it solves different problems:
Concentration Action Indications
2–5% Light moisturizing, dryness prevention Daily care, maintaining soft skin
5–10% Intensive moisturizing, gentle exfoliation Moderate dryness, flaking, atopic dermatitis
10–20% Significant softening, keratolytic effect Calluses, first cracks, hyperkeratosis
20–30% Therapeutic softening of keratinized layers Deep cracks, severe roughness of the feet
More than 40% Professional keratolytic Podiatry procedures, onycholysis
After applying the urea cream, the feeling of tightness disappears, leaving skin soft and smooth. Urea attracts water molecules and retains them in the stratum corneum, providing a long-lasting feeling of comfort.

Why does the skin of the feet especially need urea?

The skin of the feet experiences enormous mechanical stress: with every step, the entire body weight falls on a relatively small area. With age, as well as due to certain dermatological conditions, the skin's natural urea levels decrease, leading to:

  • Dryness and flaking
  • Thickening of the stratum corneum (hyperkeratosis)
  • Formation of corns and calluses
  • Painful cracks

In winter, during the heating season, the problem is exacerbated by low air humidity. Regular use of urea-containing creams helps replenish the deficiency and prevent complications.

Urea as a "conductor" for other components

In addition to its independent action, urea enhances the skin's permeability for other active ingredients. In foot creams, it helps oils (avocado, shea, evening primrose), allantoin, and other ingredients penetrate the deep layers of the epidermis. This property is especially important in comprehensive care for problematic foot skin.

At concentrations of 1 to 5%, urea acts as a carrier for the main ingredient in the treatment. At higher concentrations, it simultaneously moisturizes, exfoliates, and enhances the action of all active ingredients in the formula.

General information

Who should avoid using urea creams?

While urea is safe, there are situations when using creams containing it is not advisable:

  • Open wounds and bleeding cracks
  • Individual intolerance
  • Acute dermatological diseases (eczema, dermatitis, fungal infections)
  • Children's skin under 3 years old

For irritated skin due to atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, a product containing 10% urea may increase the burning sensation. In such cases, a concentration of no more than 5% is suitable.

A podiatrist's recommendations for use

  • Apply the cream to clean, dry skin on your feet, preferably in the evening.
  • To enhance the effect, wear cotton socks—this creates a soft "greenhouse effect."
  • Use the cream regularly: at least 3-4 times a week, ideally daily.
  • Combine home care with a professional hardware pedicure for lasting results.
  • Choose the concentration depending on your skin condition: 5-10% is sufficient for prevention, while 20-30% is sufficient for severe problems.

Podiatry at the K+31 clinic

The K+31 Podiatry Center in Moscow offers a full range of services for the diagnosis and treatment of foot and nail conditions. The clinic's podiatrists use modern equipment and help with:

  • Cracked and hyperkeratotic feet
  • Ingrown toenails
  • Fungal infections (onychomycosis)
  • Corns and calluses
  • Plantar warts
  • Diabetic foot
  • Individualized selection of home care products

If urea cream doesn't produce the expected results, consult a podiatrist at K+31 for a professional diagnosis and a personalized treatment plan.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about urea in cosmetics

Is the urea in the cream really made from urine?

No. Modern urea is synthesized in the laboratory from ammonia and carbon dioxide. The name is a nod to history: the substance was first isolated from urine in 1773.

What percentage of urea is needed for foot skin?

For prevention and light moisturizing, use 5–10%; for calluses and moderate dryness, use 10–20%; for severe cracks and hyperkeratosis, use 20–30%. Products with a concentration higher than 40% should only be used under the supervision of a podiatrist.

Can I use urea cream every day?

Yes, creams with a concentration of up to 10% are suitable for daily use. Products with higher concentrations are best used in a course, as recommended by a doctor.

Is it true that urea helps other ingredients penetrate the skin?

Yes. Urea increases the permeability of the stratum corneum, which improves the delivery of oils, vitamins, and other active ingredients to the deeper layers of the epidermis.

When shouldn't urea cream be used?

For open wounds, bleeding cracks, acute dermatoses (eczema, active fungal infections), and individual intolerances. These products are also not recommended for children under 3 years of age.

How do I schedule an appointment with a podiatrist at K+31?

You can schedule an appointment with a podiatrist at K+31 online on the clinic's website or by phone. The specialist will conduct a diagnostic examination and develop a treatment program tailored to your individual needs.

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Ivlieva Maria Georgievna
Experience 17 years
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Maria Georgievna
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Lebedinskaya Darya Alexandrovna
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Stepanova Yulia Sergeevna
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Sukhanova Alexandra Sergeevna
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Alexandra Sergeevna
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Urpin Mikhail Vladislavovich
Experience 29 years
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Mikhail Vladislavovich
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Experience 13 years
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